TT 520 
.M14 
Copy 1 



^^-^v^^-!iil!!!!iir.-.iiill!liiir. Jiiflk julflfc .irillllk.iiilUlfiir. jui1!!k .jiilllfc jrfltnr; jtiflk. nntfk Jillk Jil.fc jnUfn. .wH!k ..nilUlk .irffc Jifik : 







WITHOUT A TEACHER, 

BY 




AND 



McCLURE. 











iqjrMgiraqijpra^jr 3iqg|(«: 3q|^iitr imj^iir uiyjjpc anjgjic-jupf'jiijijiimnjijiipt -jiigir amjjpir aiqgpt -ju^jiic -.jnpiniijijjii]] 




FHACTICA1 



&£^e=& 




WITH 



MC CLURE'S METHOD, S#fS 



Inch Measurement and Square Drafting by the Old 
Mechanical Rule. 



POSITIVELY NO REFITTING FOR ANY FORM. 
/J i / 

r ft-1 — 



• ^' C/7X& C ~r<^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1880, by N. C. 
and F. L. MeClure, in the Office of the Librarian of 

Congress at Washington 



M 



tt'~ 



Pacific Press Publishing House, Oakland, Cal. 
1880. 



f^° 






RETAIL PRICES OF THE METHOD. 



1 Wooden Square, McClure's Improved, with 

Instruction Book i $6 00 

1 Inch Rule and Instruction Book 3 00 

1 Instruction Book 2 50 

1 Superior Tape 50 

1 Tracing Wheel 25 



Good Terms to Agents, with exclusive privileges 
for State, County or Towns. 



All orders must be accompanied with the cash, 
either P. O. Order, Registered Letter or by Express. 

Address N. C. McCLURE. 



TO TPE PHBIflC. 




"BESS-FITTING is an art but few acquire, even among 
professionals. The make-up is considered the ultimatum 
with many dressmakers, instead of the fit. Trimming and 
shaping are important, but an ill-fitting garment has neither com- 
fort nor style. Ease of fit is of no less consequence for the 
wear of material, than the quality of cloth. Many well-trimmed 
rich garments are ruined with poor fitting. A first-class artist 
always receives the most patronage and best pay. 

To fit well, one must first know what constitutes a good fit, 
then how to make it. A dress just the right size, neither tight 
nor loose, long or short, full or scant, that does not wrinkle, giv- 
ing complete freedom to limb and form, is always a perfect fit. 
To give a rule that will accomplish this by first measurement 
using inches only, has been the study of the authors for many 
years. 

Many systems are taught claiming all these points, but we 
allow the candid reader to judge if they have seen or used the model 
or chart, fitting from the shoulder downward, as they must do, that 
will not require changing three out of five times before even a 
passable fit is produced. 

Having once drafted the garment, it should never require 
changing, as by this necessity the proportions are spoiled, throw- 
ing it out of balance, resulting in a poor fit. The measure should 
be of such a nature that an architect or good mechanic could use 
it at a glance. 

We offer the Old Square method, based on common sense prin- 
ciples, taught in such a manner that any person may fit with 
ease the irregular as well as the good form, without changing or 
cutting out or off after drafting. We use no grades and fit from 
the waist line upward, just the reverse of all other methods. 



4 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

HOW TO LEARN THE DRAFTING. 

It is well to have the description read to you, until having 
learned the use of measures. Learn the letters on the lines, and 
carefully observe the shapings on the diagrams. Use the model 
measure in the book, until you learn to draft readily. 

Either the square or inch rule may be used, as they are simply 
inches. The back must always be drafted before the front, the 
length of seam back of arm and shoulder, on front are governed 
by those on the back. 

THE MEASURES. 

(for a model form.) 

Inches. Inches. 

Neck .12 Length of Front 19 

Arm Sye 14 Hight of Dart 13 

Bust 38 Front Shoulder Slope 15 

Width of Back 13 Back Shoulder Slope 12 

Under Arm 08 Waist 24 

Length of Back 15 Width of Chest. . _ - . . 14 

Skirt Measures. Front, Side, and Back. 

How to Take the Measure. — The lady should be tidily 
dressed. Tie a strong cord tight at waist line. 

1. Measure around the neck at top of collar. Close measures 
must be taken, setting them done as you proceed. 

2. Arm sye close to shoulder, over the point. 

3. Over full part of bust and point of shoulder blades. 

4. Width across the back, the widest part from arm to arm. 

5. Under arm, straight down from arm pit to cord. 

6. Length of back, from prominent bone in back neck to cord. 
If desired longer than to cord, note this length and the extra 

also. The length of natural waist to the cord is used in drafting 
the length of back, and the extra is added afterwards. See fig. 3. 

7. Front length is measured from same bone in neck over left 
shoulder to cord in middle of front. Measure both sides. 

8. Hight of dart is found while measuring the length of front, 
and is taken to a point below the full part of bust. 

9. Front shoulder slope is measured from the cord in front of 
left arm, over the point of shoulder to the shoulder seam. 

10. Back shoulder slope is continued from this seam, close to 
the arm, down to cord. 



McClure's Method op Dress Cutting. 5 

11. Waist measure is taken, after the cord is untied. 

1 2. Width of chest, above the bust from arm to arm. 

13. Skirt length. Front, Side, and Back. 

There need be no fears of spoiling a garment. Care being 
taken to measure correctly, the inch measure on the tape and 
rule draft exactly the same as taken. 

FflG. I. 

DRAFTING A PLAIN OR FRENCH BACK. 

The Construction Line " A " is a long line, drafted one inch 
from the edge of cloth or paper. 

Line " B " is drafted across the top of the pattern, at right 
angles with the construction line. 

Back Neck is marked on line " B: " the width of back neck 
(12) is found in the outside row of small figures, near the corner 
of square. 

Prominent Bone, line " C," is drawn parallel with " B," aud 
J inch below it. Curve the neck with arm sye from dot (12) on 
" B " to junction of " A " and « C." 

Length of Back is measured on "A" from ''A" "C " down, 
dotting at (15) the number of fall inches. 

Waist Line " G " is squared across at length of back (15). 

Shoulder Slope, line " D," is measured up from waist line 
"G," using full inches (12), and squaring across from "A." 

Arm Sye (14), line "E," is measured down from " D " and 
squared across. The division of Back " Arm Size " is found on 
the right of the Inch Rule, and at end of short arm of square. 

Hollow in Back. Mark 1 inch from construction line " A " 
on waist line " G," and draw line "F" to shoulder slope, line 
" D;" unless it be &flat back or child, then continue to line " C.'» 

Back Waist, measure from "F" on " G," and mark width 
(24). This is found ready divided on Inch Rule. If using the 
square, divide the whole waist measure by "7," taking the pro- 
duct for width. 

Width of Back, measure in half inches (13) on line "E" 
from " F." 

Length of Shoulder, square up from width of back on "E " 
to line " D," and draw a straight line from this point to top of 
neck on " B." Curve the arm sye with spring or dart end of 
square or rule. 



6 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

Seam Back of Arm, " H," draw with straight edge, from arm 
sye to width of back waist on line " G." 

Spring in Skirt, measure below waist line on line " A," three 
times the width of back waist (in full inches), crossing line " A " 
at this point; extend with straight edge line "F," as long as 
wanted. 

Spring over Hip, measure to the right of cross lines "A" 
and " F," twice the width of back waist, and with spring or dart 
end of line, extend line " H " as long as wanted. 

FIG. 2. 

Round Side Forms. Draft the back as in Fig. 1, until having 
measured and dotted the width of back waist, then add on the 
space, which is the distance between side form and back, or sim- 
ply the width of back waist added, unless it be for a basque, 
when two inches are sufficient to allow seams. The same space 
must be added beyond the width of back line "E;" square 
up to " D " from width of back on " E," and draw shoulder seam. 

Arm Size, is drafted § the distance from point of shoulder, 
line "D," to width of back on " E," and square out from this 
point, line "I." 

To this add from arm size, the same space allowed at waist, 
and complete the arm size from outside dot on " I " to outside 
dot on " E. ' 

Draw Line " H " from arm size to outside dot on (i G." 

Back Curve, line " O," is drawn with edge of arm sye or 
shaping piece, from J of arm size to waist line " G," making the 
back piece as wide, at waist line, as you like. 

Side Form Curve is drawn with the same shape, from J of 
arm size, line " I," to a point on waist line " G," the same dis- 
tance as the space measured from back curve "O." 

The Skirt is extended in middle of Back, by coming down be- 
low the waist line, three times the width of back waist, as in Fig. 
1, thence to the right once the width of back waist, and extend 
line "O," thence once more the width of back waist, with space 
added, and extend line "H." 

Line "S" is extended below "G" by placing 1 inch of the 
square parallel with it, above the waist line, and drawing it as 
long as required with the straight edge. 

Long Back "S," or those forms that are longer in the middle than 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 7 

the waist line indicates, must be lengthened by extending lines 
"F" and "0" below the waistline, after drafting the waist, 
and before springing the skirt. (See dotted lines Fig. 3.) Half 
fitting backs always require lengthening 1 or 1J inches in this 
manner. 

FIC. 3. 

Gored to Shoulder, is drawn as in Fig. 1, with space 
added at waist line, also to width across back on line "E." 
Square up from width of back on line " E " to " D," for length 
of shoulder, and add the same space on line "D." In drafting 
the shoulder line from " B " to "D," draw it J inch less than 
half the distance from " B " to "D." Square out from this di- 
vision in shoulder, line "I," and add space. Complete the 
shoulder from outside dot on " I " to outside dot on " D." Curve 
the arm size from outside dot on "D" to outside dot on "E." 
Draw seam back of arm "H," from arm size to outside dot on 
" G." Draft straight line " 0," from shoulder line " I "to waist 
line. Measure from "O" at waist, the same space used above, 
and draw line " S " from "I," to this last dot made on waist line 
" G." Extend the skirt as in Fig. 2. 

Loose Fitting Backs are drafted as in Fig. 1, and may be 
either with or without side form, adding with the arm sye or 
shaping piece the dotted lines shown in Fig. 1. 

PLAIN FRONT WITH CROSS SEAM. 

FIG. 4. 

Construction Line " A " is drawn 2 inches from the edge, un- 
less open in back, when the edge is used for line "A." 

Lines " B " and " C " are drawn as for back. 

Front Neck. Place the square in the angle " A," "B," and 
dot from the inside row of small figures near the corner, the size 
of neck (12), on both lines " B " and "C." With the square 
placed in the same angle again dot on " A " the lower neck (12), 
in the row of figures commencing at 3 inches on the long arm. 
Place the " V " of the front arm sye at the lower neck dot, and 
draw the curve to dot on line " C." 

Length of Front. Place the width of back neck (12), found 

in the outside row of small figures, commencing at 1 inch on the 

Jong arm, at the upper neck dot on line "B," measuring acros s 



8 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

the corner to line "A" at the length of front measure (19). 
(See dotted line.) 

Waist Line " G " is squared across from "A" at length of 
front. 

Size of Waist. Mark on line " G " in half inches (24). 

Length under Arm. Measure up from waist line, this length 
(8), and square across line "~F." 

Seam Back of Arm is obtained by measuring length of line 
" H " on the back, making this one same length, and squaring 
across line "E." 

Width of Front, at bust (25), is obtained by taking the 
width of back (13) from the whole bust measure (38), and is 
marked on line " E " in half inches. 

Shoulder Slope, line " D " is measured up from waist line 
(15) and squared across. 

Shoulder Seam (6) is drawn straight, and is \ inch shorter 
than the back shoulder. It is drawn from top of neck curve on 
" C " to the point of its length touching "D." Any length of 
shoulder may be drawn, by allowing the length given by width 
of back, to cross line "D," and drawing it as long as wanted. 

Arm Sye is drawn by placing the number of the Front Arm 
Sye Curve (14) at the width of front dot (25) on line "E," rest- 
ing the curve on line "F;" draft toward you from the dot until 
having passed the star, which clot. Turn the rule over (if draft- 
ing with the Inch Rule) and fit back to the curve, drafting up 
to point of shoulder. If drafting with the square, use the arm 
sye curve and numbers in the angle of the square. 

Chest Measure is to be used for telling how far in to pare or 
draft the arm size, at a point two inches below the neck. 

Seam Line " H," back of arm to waist, is squared down, from 
width of front (2Q) line "E," to waist line " G," regardless of 
size of waist. 

Finding the Darts. Add to waist line " G," beyond seam 
line " H," the width of the back waist (3 J). From waist dot 
(24) to outside dot just added on line " G," is the amount to be 
used in darts, or gore and darts. % 

Hight of Darts. Measure 1| inches below the star in 
arm size, and 3 J inches below line "F" on line "A," drawing 
line " K " from point to point. 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 9 

To Prove Hight of Darts. Place the long arm of square as 
if getting the length of front, and measure to middle of line 
"K." If the correct measure should come above or below line 
" K," dot and draw a parallel line, for correct hight of darts. 

Placing the Darts. Commencing If or 2 inches from the 
construction line on " G," dot the width of first dart on each 
side and in the middle, allowing one inch between. Dot the sec- 
ond one the same way. 

Size of Darts must be regulated by the form in every case. 
Average forms may have the first dart If to 2 \ inches, the sec- 
ond being \ to J inch less. All the surplus must be used in the 
darts and gore. A dart should seldom be made larger than 2J 
inches, and never more than 3 inches. 

Drawing the Darts. Square from line "F" through the 
middle of each dart, drawing below the waist a long line. With 
spring or dart end of rule, draft the dart from line "K" to 
waist. Both sides may be drawn by turning the rule over. Be- 
low the waist line continue with the straight edge, bringing to 
line in middle of dart from 6 to 1 6 inches below. The longer the 
dart in skirt, the less fullness is left in. 

Spring in Skirt. Extend line "H" (back of arm) below the 
waist line 2 inches, thence to the right § for medium, or 1 inch 
for large hips, and carve with spring over the hip as long as 
wanted. 

Cross Seam. Drop below waist line one inch, on the outside 
of second dart, and 1J inches below "Q" on line " H," and 
curve with the arm sye. 

Rounding the Bust. Opposite the top of the first dart, come 
toward you from line " A" § inch, drawing from waist line to 
this point, thence up to neck, within \ inch of line " A " at the 
top. 

Springing the Hem, below the waist line on " A," measure 6 
inches, and for a full form spring out 1 inch, for medium J inch, 
or small form |- inch, drawing from waist line to this dot, thence 
straight to bottom of skirt. 

FIC. 5. 

BASQUE WITH UNDER ARM GORE, 2 DARTS. 

Draft Plain Front, as in Fig. 4, to point of dotting the 
width of front or bust on line " E," adding to this the space, 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 11 

which is the same as the width of back waist. Square down 
from this dot to waist line " G," seam line "H." Measure up 
on "A" from "G," and square shoulder slope (15) line "D." 
Draw shoulder seam as in Fig. 4. 

Arm Size. Place the Front Arm Sye with the number (14) of 
arm size, at Bust dot (25), line " E." Commencing at line "F" 
draw toward you, and complete it to shoulder, as in Fig. 4. 
This drafts the front of arm size. 

Find the Darts, as in " Fig. 4," by adding the back waist 
beyond line " H," and measuring the difference between the true 
size of waist and added space. 

Divide this surplus, allowing each dart as much as wanted, 
say to the first dart 2 inches, and to the second If, making 
a total of 3 1 to be taken from the whole amount. The remain- 
der must be taken out in the gore. 

Place the Darts, as in Fig. 4, extending them as taught in 
that drafting. 

Placing the gore. Measure half way from outside of second 
dart to the seam "H," back of arm, and square long line "R," 
from "F." On either side of "R," at waist line, mark half the 
unused surplus. At line " F," mark on either side of "R," one- 
half of the space added beyond bust or front dot (25). Draw 
lines " O " and " S " from these dots on " F," to those on either 
side of line "R," at Avaist line " G." 

Complete the Arm Size, by placing the number (14) at out- 
side dot on line "E," and drawing to junction of lines "F" 
and "S." 

Spring in Skirt and gore, is drawn as in figure 4, using the 
same amount in gore that is used over hip, drawing with spring 
end of rule and coming together at line " R " below the waist 
line, as soon as the dot will permit. This gives enough fullness 
for all forms. 

FIG. 6. 

CLOSE FITTING WITH ONE DART AND GORE. 

Draft the same as figure 5, until reaching the dart. 

Place the Dart, half way from line "A," to arm size on line 
"E," drawing a line for middle of dart. Then prove the hight. 
Having found the surplus beyond size of waist, allow enough for 
one dart, making it 2 or 3 inches, taking out the remainder in 



12 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

the under arm gore, the middle of which is placed half way from 
dart, to seam back of arm. Give spring in skirt as for other 
forms of drafting. Any style of back may be used. 

FIG. 7. 

POLONAISE OR PRINCESS BACK. 

Draft a back either by figures 2 or 3. 

To cut the skirt in one piece, find the middle of space on line 
«G," between "O" and " S," extending line "N" 18 or 20 
inches, bringing lines " O " and "S " together, at any length you 
desire the dart. 

Plaits in back of skirt must be allowed before drafting, and 
should be 4 to 6 inches wide, unless a narrow skirt is wanted. 

All drapery must be allowed below the actual length of skirt- 
Trains or demi-trains must begin at the side seam " H," and 
should have a plait in middle of the back. 

The front is drafted like the basque. Lines " A" and "H" 
being extended below the waist, with the straight edge of the 
rule. Allow extra for folds or shirring. 

FIG. 8. 

CLOSE HALF-FITTING. 

Draft a tight-fitting front, with one dart, as in Fig. 6. Add 
the extra looseness at waist, with curve of shaping piece or arm 
sye (See dotted lines on Fig's 1 and 8). 

If a loose or medium garment is desired, for wash goods, leave 
in the waist one inch or more, of the surplus of dart and gore- 
Shape the gore as shown by dotted lines. 

Spring the Hem, by measuring at hight of dart from line " A " 
toward you | of an inch, and draw a straight line for neck. Cut 
away coats, jackets, and all half-fitting garments, are cut by 

this model. 

FIG. 9. 

DOUBLE BREAST. 

Draft as in Fig. 8, and may be either loose, half-fitting, or 
close. This is always regulated by the darts and gore. 

The Double Breast, or lappel, mast be allowed as a wide 
hem, before drafting the waist, and may be shaped in at waist 
line, or cut diagonally to suit the taste. 

The Lappel, or rolling collar, is simply the corner of the hem 



14 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

turned back and faced, fitting a collar in the neck, and shaping 
it round or square as desired. (See dotted lines.) Single 
breasted garments may be made with lappel by the same method. 
In the under arm gore, use half the surplus above waist meas- 
use, making no darts. Draw gore lines "0" and "S" with 
straight edge, 8 to 14 inches below waist line. 

Line "W" is drawn with the straight edge, from space dot 
line "E," crossing waist line "G" 1 or 1J inches beyond seam 
" H," back of arm. Cloaks, ulsters, and loose wrappers are cut 
by this form, and may be single breasted, with or without lappel, 
if the rules for loose fitting are observed. 

FIC. IO. 

GABRIELLE FORM. 

Draft a front as in Fig. 8. When adding the space on line 
"E," beyond the bust dot (25), instead of making it same as 
width of back waist, add 2 inches more, for gore in shoulder. 
That is, if the back waist be 3J inches, make the space 5 J. 

The Shoulder is divided the same as Eig. 3, excepting the 
space used is 2 inches of the whole amount added. 

Line " T " is drafted with the straight edge to the waist line, 
making the distance from "A" 2 or 3 inches. 

Line " W" is drawn from the shoulder to waist, allowing the 
same space between "T" and "W" that was used at the 
shoulder. (See dotted line.) Back of this dotted line take off a 
dart of two inches, for ladies, or J to 1 inch for children, shaping 
from hight of dart (line "K"), with spring or dart end of rule. 

Eind the Surplus in waist, as in cutting a basque, and deduct 
from this the amount used in front gore and dart, taking out the 
remainder in the under arm gore. 

The Arm Size is drafted, by placing the number of arm sye 
(14) at the 2 inch space dot on line "E" (which must be the 
first space beyond the bust dot), and drafting the front of arm 
hole as in Fig. 5. Square down seam "H," back of arm, 
drawing the spring in skirt and gore lines, as in Eig. 5. Square 
down from middle of dart at waist line, and bring together lines 
"T" and "W," 8 to 20 inches below "G." Any style of 
back may be used. 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 15 

FIG II. 

CHILD'S BACK. 

Allow 1 \ inches for lap and hem, and draft the back any style 
you like, as in drafting a back for basque. Extend line "H'' 
below waist line, with the straight edge. 

FIG. 12. 

CHILD'S FRONT. 

Draft as in Fig. 4, leaving off the space at the bust dot 
line "E." 

Draw the Arm Size, with the inch rule, by placing the size 
of arm hole at the bust dot line " E," and drafting toward you, 
fitting the straight edge of rule up to point of shoulder, without 
turning the rule over as for ladies. If drafting with the square, 
draw the arm size with the small curve of shaping piece, instead 
of arm eye in corner of square. Draw the seam back of arm 
" H," and spring line "Z" beyond it, at waist line 1 or 1|- inches 
with the straight edge. No darts are required for small children. 
Larger children may have the Gabrielie form, Fig. 10, using two 
spaces of 2 J inches each, taking off a small dart back of front 
space. Either one or two gores may be used. Cut the garment 
on fold of goods in front. 

FIG. 13. 

BOYS' COAT BACK. 

Measure as for a dress, and draw the back as Fig. 1. 

Side Body Curve, is drawn as for basque, leaving off seam 
back of arm "H." The back may be cut on the fold of the cloth 
if desired. 

FIG. 14. 

COAT FRONT. 

Allow 2 or 3 inches for double breast or lappel, and draft the 
front as in Fig. 8. Measure on line "A" the length of side 
body curve, found by measuring on back, and square across line 
"E." Measure in half-inches the width of front or breast on line 
"E," With the curve used on the back, draw line "B," from 
the breast dot to size of waist on line "G," regardless of dotted 
line "H." Extend into skirt with the straight edge as long as 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 17 

wanted. Make the skirt the same length all round. A small 
dart 1 or 1| inches may be taken out under the arm, ending in 
the pocket. 

SLEEVE MEASURE. 

Outside Seam, from shoulder to wrist 21 

Wrist to Elbow 9 

Inside Seam 17 

Arm Size, loose over point of shoulder 14 

Elbow, as large as wanted 12 

Hand, over knuckle 9 

FIC. 15. 

DRAFTING UPPER SIDE. 

Draw lines A and B, and measure on A from B 1 J inches, for 
a 9-inch hand. (For every inch larger than 9, add \ inch; or for 
each inch less than 9 deduct \ inch from 1^). Placing the corner 
of the square at this point, incline the long arm across to line " B,' 
using the half inches; allow one number larger than the hand 
measure to strike the line " B," and draft " C." If the hand be 9, 
draft line " C " 10 half inches. Measure from " B " on " A," to 
elbow (9), and square across line "D." From "C" on "A," 
the length of inside seam (17), and square across line " E." 
From "B" on "A," measure outside seam (21), and square 
line "F." Add, above " F," 1 inch, and square line "G" for 
top curve. On "D," measure from "A," 1 inch, for inside 
line "H," and from this dot on "D," measure the width of 
elbow, adding two numbers (half inches) and dot. On " F," 
measure the arm size, in half inches, adding three numbers. 
Draft line " H," from junction of "A " and " C," to the first 
dot (one inch) on " D," from « A," thence to " E " " A." Draw 
line "K,"from "0" " B," to outside dot on <D;" thence to 
outside dot on " F." Curve the top with shaping piece or arm- 
sye, from outside dot on " F " to middle of line " G," and thence 
down to "A" "E." 

FIC, 16. 

UNDERSIDE OF SLEEVE, 

Draw lines A, B, D, E and F, by the measures, same as upper 
side. Having drafted the inclined line "C " one number larger 



18 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

than the hand, take off 2 numbers (half inches) from "B" on 
"C." On " D," measure from "A," one inch, for line "H." 
Measure on "D," from " H," the width for elbow, making it 4 
numbers less than the upper side was drafted. On "F," dot the 
width for arm size, measuring it 6 numbers less than the top was 
marked (See Diagram). Draft lines "H" and " K," and curve 
the top with spring or arm-sye." 

FIG. 17. 

DOLMAN BACK. 

Draft a basque back, making the shoulder 4^ or 5 inches, and 
goring it to this shortened shoulder. Give the spring in skirt 
same as for basque. 

Back Sleeve. Allow a space of 5 inches, beyond the point of 
shortened shoulder, on lines "I " and "D;" also beyond dotted 
line " H," at waist line. Draw line " S," as shown in the dia 
gram. Placing figure 8 (found on back arm-sye of inch rule, or 
21, on spring end of square), at the space dot of long shoulder, 
line " D," and edge of rule at space dot, on line "I;" draw long- 
shoulder, line " T," as long as the sleeve is wanted. Shape the 
bottom of sleeve to line " S." 

FIG 18. 

DOLMAN FRONT. 

Draft sacque front as for basque. Shorten the shoulder, the 
same length as on back. Placing the arm-sye, or shaping piece, 
at point of shortened shoulder, curve the arm-hole, coming 
inside of the arm-size, 3 inches, at line "F," and extend across 
line " H," as long as the sleeve is to be, shaping the skirt to suit 
the taste. 

Sleeve. Square out from the shortened-shoulder, line "I," 
and add 5-inch space. Also, on line " D," add, from length of 
long shoulder, 5 inches. Beyond the star, in the sacque arm- 
size, add 5-inch space on line "F," and draft line "S," the same 
curve of large arm hole, to line "F;" turning the shaping-piece 
over, reverse the curve, completing the line below " F," and 
across " H," as long as line of arm-hole, "M." Placing the 
shoulder-seams together, from point to point, allowing the two 
halves of sleeve to lap slightly; cut the sleeve without a seam. 
Allow small seams in cutting out the garment. 



A 


D \ 


4 H 


/ 

1 — 

£ 


3v 


-a 


F ^*\ 


uu 





20 McGlure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

FIC. 19. 

COLLARS AND YOKES. 

Having cut the back and front, place the shoulder seams to- 
gether, as shown in the diagram, and carefully mark the neck- 
curve, front, and back seams, as deep as you want a collar or 
yoke. Shape with arm-sye. 

SHIRT CUTTING. 

Measures. — 

Neck . Breast 

Length of Shoulder Length of Bosom 

Arm Size __ Length of Shirt 

FIC. 20. 

FRONT OF SHIRT. 

Draft lines A and B, marking on " B " the size of front neck, 
two numbers larger than the measure. Mark below, on line 
"A" (before moving the square), the lower neck-dot, one number 
less than the measure of neck. Draft line " C " \ inch below 
(' B," again making the neck clot, and draw the neck-curve from 
this point to dot on "<A." Measure on " A," below " B," If 
inches, and square across line "D," marking on it J of the breast 
measure in full inches. Turning the short arm of square to this 
point, on "D," square down long line "E." 

Draw the shoulder from top of neck, measuring from corner of 
square, allowing 7 inches to rest on " D,'* drawing the shoulder 
as long as the measure calls for. Square down from point of 
shoulder on " D," line " F," measuring on it the depth of arm-hole, 
in half inches, and squaring across to "E,"line "N." With 
curve of arm-sye, draw the arm-hole, as shown in the diagram. 

FIC. 21. 

BACK OF SHIRT. 

Draw lines A, B, C and D, as for front. Mark the back-neck 
on "B," 2 numbers larger than the measure of neck, and draw, 
with curve, to junction of "A " on " C." 

Measure on "D" £ of breast, and square line "E," Draw 
the shoulder from the upper neck-dot to " D," as in drafting of 
front, making it the same length. Measure from "D," on "E,' 

\ 



22 McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 

in half inches, the size of arm-hole. Placing the arm-sye curve 
across front point of shoulder to depth of arm size, draw the arm- 
hole. Curve the seam under arm to correspond with that on 
front, making it 1 inch longer. 

FIG. 22. 

PANTS CUTTING. 

Measures. — 

1. Waistband 4. Hip (loose) 

2. Outside Seam (from hip). 5. Bottom of Leg 

3. Inside Seam (of leg) 

Drafting the Front. — Draft lines A and B, making "A" as 
long as the outside seam, and square across the bottom line, " Q.' ' 

Draft line "C " 1J inches below line " B," for boys, and for 
men 2 to 2J inches. Measure up from "G," on "A," the length 
of inside seam, and square across line a D." From li A," on line 
"G," measure 1 inch for line "E," and at " C," J inch for the 
top of same line. Draw line " E," from dot on " G," to junction 
of <D" and "A;" thence up to J-inch dot on " C," with the 
spring of rule. From "E," on " G," measure one-half the size of 
bottom of leg, less 1 inch for line " H." On line " D," from " E," 
measure ^ of the hip size, and on " C," from " E," \ of the waist 
measure. "Draft line "H," with spring end of rule at dot on 
"D," and straight edge at dot on " G," completing it to line "G," 
the same shape. Square down a line from outside dot on "C" 
to " D," and curve with shaping-piece or spring to outside dot on 
"D." 

Back of Pants. — Having drafted the front, add to the width 
of the bottom of the leg, on line " G," beyond line " H," 1 inch. 
At line " D," add beyond line " H," for boys, 1 J inches; for men, 
2 inches, and on lineB (see dotted line), add beyond "H," 1 inch. 
Draw waist-line, for back, from dot on " B " to junction of " A " 
and " C." Draw line " K " with spring'end of rule at outside 
dot, on "D," and straight edge at waist-line, on "B," turning the 
rule, continue from " D " to outside dot, on "G." 

Trace off the front, before cutting out the back, allowing small 
seams all round. 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 23 

FIG. 23. 

GORED SKIRT. 

Front Gore. Draw lines A and B. Drop below " B," on 
"A," one inch, and taking I of whole waist measure for the 
width of top, with the corner of square at the dot on " A " below 
" B," and long arm inclined across until the J strikes " B," draft 
line " C," half-way from "A" to " B." Placing the short arm 
of square parallel with inclined line " C," at the half-way dot; 
draw gore line " D.' Measuring from line " D," take off J inch 
toward you on " C," and with spring end of rule curve the top, as 
shown in the diagram. Draw lines "A" and "D" the same 
length. 

FIG. 24. 

Side Gore. Draw lines A and B, as for front. Drop below 
lt B," on "A," J inch, placing the corner of the square at this 
dot; incline the long arm across to " B," until the remainder of 
J of waist, not used on the top of front gore, with one inch added; 
that is J-f- 1, strikes line " B;" then draw line " C," this length. 
Placing the short arm of rule parallel with line " C;" draw gore- 
line " D," as on the front. Take off \ inch from " A," on " C," 
and slightly curve the top of "A." Train skirts begin to lengthen 
at side gore. 

FITTING ODD FORMS. 

Having measured both sides of the front, from the back neck; 
also the front shoulder slope of each shoulder, and length under 
both arms, note the difference, if any. 

Draft to the front of longest measure, and mark the difference, 
either at neck or on point of shoulder, or both, drawing new 
shoulder lines, as shown by dotted lines in Figs. 5 and 6. 

If there be a difference in length under arms, draft a new arm 
size, as much lower as the measure calls for. 

One drafting is sufficient for any form, if these rules are fol- 
lowed. The lower side may be traced through to the other side 
of lining. If one side of. the back be wider than the other, draft 
two backs. 

Should the form require a very much rounded bust, this is ac- 
complished by hollowing in the waist, at line "G," one inch; the 
same as on the back, springing the skirt by crossing line "A," a 
6 inches below "G." 



McClure's Method of Dress Cutting. 25 

CUTTING AND BASTING. 

Having drafted the garment, cut it out, allowing seams all 
round, excepting in the neck and arm-sye. Clip all bias seams, 
especially at the waist-line. The darts set better if cut out. 

Very much depends on basting correctly. 

Be careful to have the waist-lines come together. Baste the 
side form, holding the back toward you. Pin the darts and 
gore even at the waist, and baste from this line up and down. 

With the back shoulder toward you, baste from the neck, hold- 
ing the back slightly full to the front, until it comes out even 
at the arm size. Turn the hem to the rounded bust line, allowing 
it to extend out ou the button side under the button-holes to 
prevent gaping. 




